I have a 2000 Honda Accord EX V6 with 76,075 miles. It seemed when I drove the car for a long period of time and then stopped and shut off the car for a couple of seconds and then went to start the car back up, it wouldn’t start and the check-engine light would come on.
QUESTION: I have a 2000 Honda Accord EX V6 with 76,075 miles. It seemed when I drove the car for a long period of time and then stopped and shut off the car for a couple of seconds and then went to start the car back up, it wouldn’t start and the check-engine light would come on. For the car to start I would have to give it some gas and it would give a hard start but then the engine would turn over. I took the car to Auto Zone last year and they said that one or more sparkplugs are misfiring and decided to change the sparkplugs and put in platinum sparkplugs. Two months passed by and had the problem again. I got the same codes from Auto Zone and decided to change the EGR valve and clean the fuel injector with injector cleaner. That seem to work and a year later (that’s today) I am having the same problem and the same codes keeps coming up. What should I do now? Please help me. Here are the codes I am getting every time the check-engine light comes on: PO300, PO301, PO302, PO303, PO304, PO305, PO306, P1399.
ANSWER: All the codes indicate engine misfire. The most common cause on this vehicle is a sticking EGR valve. When the EGR does not close fully, it causes a lean condition (too much air) and leads to a misfire. You should take the car to a qualified technician and have him check the car with the scan tool and observe the EGR valve operation. EGR problems are very common on this vehicle. I see a lot of these V/6 engines for which we remove the intake and then clean all the carbon deposits.
QUESTION: I have seen a lot of commercials on the new built-in-South-Carolina 2011 BMW X3. Living in the snow belt, I have a great interest in the new SUV and would like your thoughts on the SUV.
ANSWER: There is a lot buzz on the new X3 and after a week behind the wheel, the new X3 is deserving of it, plus more. First the combined gas mileage on our base test X3 was in the 20s; EPA is 19 city, 25 highway, excellent for this all-wheel drive vehicle. The ease of entry was a big plus for my wife. On a cold morning engine warm-up is fast, not to mention the heated front seats and steering wheel. The much talked about Idrive is very user friendly, unlike the earlier models. Base price is $36,700 price as tested with all the options including the extra large panorama sunroof, $44,165. Did I mention the new X3 has an eight-speed automatic transmission? This puts the engine in its power range at any speed. Take a test drive and you will be impressed with the new X3.
QUESTION: I am hoping you can help me to understand why I needed three major repairs on a 2008 Ford Edge. I purchased this vehicle October of 2008 and did not take an extended warranty because I never had a problem like this. The car has just over 29,000 miles, and a few weeks ago I notice a transmission fluid leak on my driveway. I also had a problem with the driver window not functioning properly. I took the car to Ford service and needed to replace the transmission cooler assembly, passenger side axial seal, window regulator and motor at an out-of-pocket expense of over $900. Ford could not give me an explanation for this. Can you help?
ANSWER: Your car is 3-plus years old and does have low mileage. Some of the parts in today’s vehicles are not of the best quality and fail at an early age. Some vehicles with low mileage parked outside during the long cold winter months seem to have a much faster deterioration of parts due to rusting. If you did buy an extended warranty, the cost would have been $1,500 or more. If there are no more major expenses, you are ahead of the game. On average the Edge has a good track record.
QUESTION: I have a 2006 VW with 33,000 miles on it. This past winter I have had a problem with the driver’s side door. When the weather is very cold, I am unable to unlock the driver’s side door with the remote. All the other doors open without a problem except for the driver’s side door. I have to go into the car from the passenger side, start it up and get it warm. The door will open from the inside of the car but not the outside. After the car has warmed up, it’s fine. We have used de-icer but to no avail. The dealer put a new lock on the door, but it’s still the same. Do you have any advice as to what we can do?
ANSWER: To date when it comes to frozen doors in cold weather, lubrication usually takes care of the problem, not replacing parts. When lubricating any moving door parts, linkage, etc., never use regular petroleum oil. You need to use a synthetic oil or graphite only. You also need to lubricate all the rubber seals that contact the body this will also include the trunk seal. Have the technician remove the door panel and lubricate all the moving door linkage. As for lubricating the door key cylinder, use only graphite and do not over lubricate.
Junior Damato writes weekly about cars. You can send questions to him care of the Old Colony Memorial, 182 Standish Ave., Plymouth, MA 02360.